Gluttonous Travels: Greedy Diva Bites the Big Apple - New York, USA (Part 1 - Breakfast, brunch and coffee)

New York, New York!! In a city of over 20,000 restaurants, not even counting Magnolia Bakery, just where does a Greedy Diva begin in this fabulous foodie city?

The Peanut Gallery and I have quite a taste for the Big Apple, and when in town we have a habit of waking up wide eyed at 5am to bound around the city from end to end, trying to squeeze in as many meals, burgers, hot dogs and cupcakes as our ever expanding gullets will hold.

So here we are again in the city that never sleeps. Here are some of my favourite food spots from trips gone by, supplemented by our latest discoveries this week. I've broken it into parts to aid digestion.

Part 1: Breakfast/Brunch

Balthazar Bakery
• Balthazar: Beautiful French bistro, in the heart of Soho. Soak up the bustling atmosphere over some Eggs en Cocotte and the New York Times. Love it! Open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and afters. The gorgeous bakery next door is great for take away cakes, coffee and doughnuts (ok, donuts - when in Rome...). 80 Spring Street, Soho.
• Bubby's: Huge American style breakfasts - for when more is more. Try the huge stack of blueberry pancakes, or a southern style fry up with home fries or grits. Wear elasticised trackies and don't look back. Not for the faint hearted (nor raw food devotees). 120 Hudson Street, Tribeca.
• Bouley Bakery: Sample the fresh baked goods, coffee, desserts, soups, salads and sandwiches from Chef David Bouley's bakery, next to his well known restaurant. A feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. Yum. 120 West Broadway.
  
• Public: Why do we always forget New York Sunday brunch hours when we come here? Public looks fabulous - if only I could (1) arrive when its open (after 12pm on a Sunday) and (2) get a table - I have only stared down other diners while jealously hovering over them on 2 sequential NY trips now. Check out the vanilla brioche French toast with star anise poached plums, amaretto marscapone and fresh basil. Public also comes recommended by my new and trusted foodie friend, Michael. And its just been awarded a Michelin Star. Another reason to haul myself back to New York asap (as if I needed one...). 210 Elizabeth Street.
  

Cafe Select
• Cafe Select: For a decent brekkie with the locals, we stumbled upon Cafe Select. My fruit salad was ordinary (too much apple, not enough exotica), but TPG's Eggs Palais Federal (2 poached eggs with hunks of ham off the bone and hollandaise) were excellent. 212 Lafayette Street, NoLita

Pastis
• Pastis: Another tried and tested brunch spot, although I prefer it for lunch - see my Lunch tips to follow in Part 2.
  
• Do New York hot dogs count as breakfast? 

Coffee:

Always on the prowl for a decent espresso in the land of filter coffee, here are the results of some extensive research, with particular thanks to The Peanut Gallery who did the original leg work on most of these while shopping for sneakers (the man needs his coffee)...

Joe

Joe: Best strong cup of espresso I've sampled in NY to date. Smooth, rich and they make the lattes "flat white" style. Feel the buzz. 141 Waverly Place, West Village

9th Street Espresso

• 9th Street Espresso: Looks so promising, but the espresso was mediocre - big cups, too milky, although the flavour was ok. Minimalist setting. Might be worth another burl if you are in the area and specify your desired milk to coffee ratio...if you care that much. 700 East 9th Street, East Village
  

• Gimme! Coffee: Good quality coffee, and conveniently placed for some serious shopping. 228 Mott Street, NoLita
• City Girl Cafe: A good coffee, if sometimes a little weak, using Stumptown organic coffee beans. The chilli chocolate balls are a must if you're stopping by. 63 Thompson Street, Soho
  

Cafe Ost
• Cafe Ost: A fun new discovery, courtesy of one of New York's latest and greatest foodie residents, Susie. As the sun streams in the windows, sip a decent latte surrounded by trendy students and workers with their Mac laptops abuzz. 441 East 12th Street, East Village
• Balthazar Bakery: See above, but worth another mention. Not the most amazing coffee in town, but fairly decent for a takeway option, particularly when coupled up with a delicious cinnamon doughnut/donut. 80 Spring Street, Soho
  

Olive's

Olive's
• Olive's:  Gorgeous shop with just better than mediocre coffee - but at least the small cup option is available among NY's jungle of milky grandes. Strictly takeaway only. Also good for takeaway sandwiches, cookies, fruit salad and snacks. Service is brusque. 120 Prince Street
  
• Abraco: Closed every time we make the trip to the lower East Side (it's closed Mondays). But we have a feeling this could be "the one". 86 East 7th Street, East Village

Many of the lunch spots to follow in my Part 2 tips are also great for brekkie/brunch. If only my fingers could keep up with my stomach... stay tuned.

Gluttonous Travels: Greedy Diva does Miami (Florida, USA)

I have 50 hours in Miami. The sun is shining, the waves are lapping and there's a smell of fake tan in the air. So much to eat, so little time...

Five Guy's Burgers: 1500 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Having been starved off my BA flight (2 meals in almost 10 hours with not an offer of a peanut in between), upon arrival at Miami, I was starting to eye off passing limbs as I made my way to Five Guy's Burgers. Lucky for me, The Peanut Gallery had cased out the South Beach scene the night before, and recommended I sample a wee burger as a pre-dinner emergency snack.

I ordered the "small" cheese burger with lettuce, tomato, pickle and ketchup (although choose your own adventure with the toppings at no extra charge). Greasy, juicy, flavoursome, delicious. Looks somewhat disturbingly like a Maccas burger, but tastes in a whole different league. Just the right beef to fat ratio (which according to Marco Pierre White, should be 80:20 and I'm not inclined to argue). And it turns out "small" simply means 1 normal sized patty as opposed to "large" which involves 2 double decker slabs of meat (tempting...).

A big box of unshelled peanuts is available on a help yourself basis to crack and nibble while you wait. And chips are served peel on. I like it! Less than $3-something for the "small" (but not really small) burger.

Miss Yip Chinese Cafe: 1661 Meridian Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Following on from my burger appetiser, chased down by a refreshing margarita on Lincoln Road, it was time for some sobering late night Chinese food. Miss Yip is described by the Wallpaper City Guide to Miami as "sort of Suzi Wong meets New York's Mercer hotel-designer Christian Liagre". It's cool but traditional all at the same time. 

Despite the funky interior, Miss Yip was not all style over substance. Big chunks of sesame chicken with broccoli were addictively delicious, and the sweet and sour shrimp were big, buxom and packed with flavour. There's lots to choose from on the "Hong Kong inspired" menu. 

Along with sake (not a good match) and rice, eat fairly cheaply for around $15 per head.

David's Cafe: 1654 Meridian Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Just across the road from Miss Yip, David's Cafe offers Cuban cuisine served in an extremely basic (borderline grotty) setting.

On the prowl for a decent morning caffeine heart-starter, it was hard to go past David's with the gathering hordes queuing out the front for their morning fix. The cortaditos were formidable (Cuban coffee in the form of a strong short black with about 25% frothy warm milk). Yeeehaaah.

With some interesting Cuban brekkie options on the menu, but the hope of some significant meals on the day's agenda, it took some willpower to stick to the Cuban toast - long thin (rather dry) bread served with jam and, as a consequence of minor theft from TPG's plate, a generous dollop of cream cheese (my own spontaneous American-Cuban fusion). 3 coffees, 1 large Cuban toast, 1 bagel and 1 OJ later the bill came to less than $10 for two. Did I mention how much I loved the cortaditos?

The Spot: 1570B Alton Road, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

I am probably one of only a chosen few who have ever taken a taxi from a luxury, poolside cocktail bar specifically to get to The Spot. A tiny, non-descript takeaway style joint, I would definitely not have shot The Spot a second glance had I not heard the good oil from other trusted foodies (thanks Frodnesor).

But, as is often the case, it's the quiet types that you have to watch. In the case of The Spot, it is bang on the money when it comes to simple (heart attack inspiring) food that hits, well, the spot.

The Spot serves a simple menu of soul/Southern food. I was not leaving without indulging in The Spot Shrimp Po' Boy. About 35,000 kilos of fried shrimp, lettuce and mayo walloped my way, crammed happily into a long crunchy roll. "Just use your fork to squash it in, grab some napkins and eat it" offered the helpful counter guy. So, I did.

As the mayo dripped down my face, I also sampled the side of the day: the black eyed peas. Cooked with bacon and onion, this was a mushy little concoction of no particular flavour or merit, although - true to form - I ate it all the same.

Po' boy ($8), mush and giant forearm sized lemonade came to a hefty $18 bill, presumably including a decent tip (although I was so busy talking through with the staff the possibility of having a Po' Boy delivered to the beach, that I paid this sum plus a considerable extra post shrimp delirium tip without calculating.)



Cocktail hour:

After some serious beach time (alas, no Po' Boy delivery for afternoon tea - this time...), it was necessary to gather my thoughts over a well made martini at the luxurious Delano Hotel (the foyer alone is a sight to be seen), backed up nicely by a refreshing mohito at the Shore Club's Skybar, which was everything a glitzy Miami meat market should be.

Then it was over the bridge towards the glistening lights of downtown Miami and the Design District to the main event...

Michael's Genuine Food and Drink: 130 North East 40th Street, Miami Design District, Florida, USA

Even just recalling my meal at Michael's last night, the loony smile/dazed look combination is already creeping back onto my face.

I was eating solo, and willing to travel for a hearty bite. Tucked away in the artsy Miami Design District, Michael's Genuine Food and Drink is well worth the cab fare from South Beach across the Biscayne Bay.

Michael Schwartz's restaurant is a popular, bustling Miami institution for those seeking great quality, locally sourced food a world away from the South Beach scene. I perched myself up at bar overlooking the frenetic kitchen. As the tickets rolled in at an alarming pace, before a morsel had even passed my lips, I was already in heaven watching the kitchen theatre play out. Cries of "chicken in the hole" and "2 grouper" rang out, as pizza bases were tossed and rolled, the enormous pastry chef (a good sign) juggled trays of eggs and spliced through dough, trays of giant wood oven roasted whole snapper sprung over the counter, and  the woodfire flames burned merrily throughout.

Dishes are conveniently layed out on the menu in terms of size: small (ranging from $8 - $15), medium $10 - $20), large ($20 - $30) and extra large ($30 +, and where is The Peanut Gallery when you need him?)

I started with the wood roasted double yolk farm egg, cave aged gruyere, roasted tomato, chives and sourdough crostini. The waiter just smiled and nodded knowingly as I ordered. And it was simply breathtaking (the food, not the smile). A ramekin of soft perfectly formed yolks, were topped with baked earthy gruyere. My entire body was smiling, as I savoured each mouthful never wanting it to end. If I had someone to talk to, I would have been speechless.

Since it had been a light day for food (cough), I eventually moved on to the pan roasted 1/2 "poulet rouge" chicken, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, escarole. Poulet rouge is a rustic chicken breed raised organically, in this case, in parts of America's south. This one had clearly been, via the wood oven, to heaven and back. Crispy skin perfectly encased the juicy, smoky meat. Gorgeous.

For unpretentious, top quality, skilled home cooking, it would be hard to beat Michael's. The kitchen has the confidence to hold back from allowing too much chefyness interfere with simple, pure flavours. Sitting at the bar is spectacular, or you could opt for an alfresco dinner in the courtyard (it's warm in Miami even when its dark and cold in London...). Thanks again to Frodnesor for this much treasured recommendation.

The bill came to $52 including wine - such a small price to pay for perfection and a smile that will last for days.

News Cafe: 800 Ocean Drive, South Beach, Miami, Florida, USA 

Breakfast. Time to get some cleansing vitamins in the system. After a stroll along the glamorous Ocean Drive, in the heart of Miami's Art Deco district, I settle on News Cafe to soak up some sun and take in the scene. There are plentiful options on Ocean Drive, which is lined with cafes, hotels and restaurants from glitzy to the fabulous - although food quality may be questionable despite the fact you'll pay over $5 for your latte. News Cafe is one of the more laid back options (less Botox, more Boho), packed with tables spilling on to the sidewalk.

As I was after a refreshingly light and healthy option, I ordered the pancakes with banana and strawberries. As my waiter disappeared onto the horizon, I looked down at my gullet, remembered I was soon to go on show as South Beach's whitest person in a bikini, and promptly had a change of heart. I chased down my waiter for the fruit salad and granola. The fruit was plentiful, and just the health boost I needed, although the granola was a little too sweet. My cortadito was bitter and not a patch on that at David's Cafe, but it did what I needed it to do.

An extensive menu for a casual, basic brekkie - mine came to around $10. News Cafe is not a "must do" on your Miami eats hit list, despite that it seems to have earned some fame, but a stroll along Ocean Drive should not be missed.



Tapas & Tintos: 448 Espanola Way, Miami, Florida, USA

Finally, we joined up with some friends for a last minute lunch at Tapas & Tintos. A hit and miss mix of tapas and salads was no match for the sparkling company.

Goodbye Miami:

Greedy Diva's 50 hour whirlwind tour of Miami had come to an end. Not only had I topped up on essential vitamin D stocks to get me through the dark London winter, but Miami was so much more than I had bargained for - loved it, loved it, loved it!

But this is no time for reminiscences. Next stop, New York!

Bentley's Oyster Bar & Grill, Mayfair (London)

Feeling like Charlie on the way to the Chocolate Factory, on Monday evening I had in my clutches a much coveted golden ticket to the fabulous Dine with Dos Hermanos event at Bentley's.

I skipped merrily along the streets of Mayfair, eagerly anticipating a night with other obsessed foodies and the renowned culinary prowess of Richard Corrigan's restaurant. Plus, Simon Majumdar, co-author of the brilliant Dos Hermandos blog with his brother Robin, had mentioned a substantial goody bag.... I have been known to bowl over small children at parties for a goody bag. This was not to be missed.

I joined the buzzing roomful at 7pm, and was welcomed by a glass of oyster stout hearty enough to put hairs on your chest. Beckoning nearby were a steady stream of luscious, freshly shucked native oysters. Enormous trays frolicked around the room, bursting with succulent giant prawns fried in the perfect amount of light, crispy batter. So far, so fabulous.

All in good time, we settled down for some serious feasting. Joining me at the table was a fantastic array of food lovers - the lovely TGS, aka Robin, from Dos Hermanos; food writer, Andrew Webb; Bibendum wine blogger, Dan; Tim Hayward, a gregarious food writer (and recent winner of the 2009 Guild of Food Writers Award for New Media) passionate about many food issues, but evidently none more than a sensational fish pie; Michael from Sydney with superlative taste in worldwide food and coffee haunts; fun loving foodies, Vicky and Pam; and a man of great literary inclinations, Ivan, who actually reads my blog (a rare trait indeed) and will even pretend to recall bits of it when bribed with alcohol.

Throughout the night, I also met many other terrific food obsessives, including Simon who did a first rate job of making sure odd balls like me had someone to talk to, and the faces behind some of my favourite food writing.

But the main event was the outstanding feast the kitchen had in store for us.

Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill is a London institution which has been in the game since 1916 and was rejuvenated by the appointment of Richard Corrigan as head chef in the early 1990s - Richard now owns the restaurant and the kitchen is headed up by the talented Brendan Fyldes. The style is robust, down to earth, seasonal food.

First course was a platter containing a delicious bounty of smoked seafood (including salmon, tuna, eel and mackerel) as well as potted shrimp and pikelet sized blinis. Oh, how I love blinis. I think I went back for 5ths.

The main meal was the real conqueror. A huge pot, resplendent with tender cheeks of beef cooked in oyster stout, was placed ceremoniously in the centre of each table, with sides of creamy mash and roasted potatoes, parsnip and baby carrots. This alone was enough to feed a gourmet army.

However, the best was yet to come, in the form of two delectable fish pies. The fresh "meaty" chunks of salmon, haddock, prawns and scallops, steamily heart warming, were absolute gullet pamperers. Upon first bite, Tim emitted an involuntary great whoop of delight. I had never eaten fish pie this good.

Pudding was also a lip smacker. We shared 2 immense toffee puddings, rich and moist, with thick cream which I greedily drowned in as much toffee sauce as I could get away with while avoiding eviction.

Each dish was accompanied by a superb wine. I can't for the life of me remember the names (Bibendum Dan will be most displeased, if not surprised) but the Australian muscat style sticky was head rollingly good. [Postscript: I now know the wines were generously supplied by Nepenthe and Wines Unearthed.]

With a guest list that included some astute foodies, the chefs were clearly out to impress. However, the dazzle certainly worked on this simple scoffer. I'm quite desperate to return with The Peanut Gallery to sample more. Until then, I'll have to make do with trying to hide my enormous goody bag.

An outstanding meal and experience all round. It has certainly inspired many adjectives from me this evening, but then I'm trying to make do without food snaps (can't snap, must eat...). Thanks again, Dos Hermanos.

Bentley's Oyster Bar and Grill, 11-15 Swallow Street, Mayfair, London W1B 4DG

HIX, Soho (London)

Of course, the moment I saw Mark Hix, I greeted him like an old friend. "Hi! (old Chum [implied])". Mark Hix is not an old friend. He is not even old. Or a friend. This is merely the cringeful reflex reaction to any "celebrity" sighting which I can't seem to shake.

Naturally, as I am not eminent on-trend artist or a member of the London glitterati, or barely even a sane looking member of society really, M Hix did not return the cheer. However, I decided not to take it personally. For one thing, I did have my nose pressed against the freshly polished glass of his spanking new restaurant while looking slightly deranged in my running gear and an enormous woolly beanie at the time. Also, I really like the food at his Hix Oyster and Chop House in Farringdon. So I decided not to let my pride get in the way of a potentially good feed (while secretly hoping some fabulous revenge would be delivered, like a tough serving of overcooked cod's tongue).

So I couldn't resist ducking back to HIX Soho for a quick lunch time bite yesterday. As I was flying solo, and heading out for a huge evening feast later, I perched myself up at the bar, befriended the barman, ordered a healing glass of red and peered sleuth-like over my menu at the plates on surrounding tables.

Hix does the traditional British fare thing well. The menu offers a tempting array of seafood, poultry and meats all of which looked and smelt as good as they read. Yesterday, I stuck to a dish of herring milts on toast with capers and parsley. Simple, but lovely, with a generous serving of milts, the only drawback was the toast being a fraction too thin. (Me persnickety??)

The delicious side loaf of bread was robust and served warm. Service was surprisingly friendly and I loved the casual but dapper feel of the classic styled room (despite the hospital type white tiles on the floor). Mark Hix was again doing the rounds among the regulars - steering well clear of me of course.

My lunch and wine came to around £14, and I thoroughly enjoyed my midday break. Next time I'm up for a leisurely splurge, I would definitely return to sample a larger feast of what's on offer. I'm not sure I would prefer HIX over other restaurants charging similar prices, and there is better value in town, but if you can get over the hype the man certainly knows how to serve up good British fare.

HIX, 66-70 Brewer Street, Soho, London W1F 9TR