Greedy Diva's Gluttonous Travel Highlights for 2009

(Lamb & spinach pizza wrap, St Ali, Melbourne)

The Greedy Diva blog is a wee piglet at less than 3 months old, but the Greedy Diva philosophy of exploring the world as led by the rumbling compass of her stomach has been a life long journey. Here are my top greedy travel adventures for 2009 - with more gastro-travel snaps to follow when my feet hit London where they're stashed (the photos, not my feet).

(Pickled vegetables, Japanese style)

1. Tokyo:  It's hard to put your lips wrong in Tokyo. At one end of the scale are high end restaurants serving the freshest melt-in-the-mouth sushi & intricate bento meals presented gracefully like beautiful foodie giftboxes. At the other are discreetly hidden bars dishing out mouthwatering grilled yakitori skewers to accompany refreshing Japanese beers. Either way, if you can cope with the sensory overload, this is a sensational travel destination for any food lover.

Best of all (and that's saying something in Tokyo) was Kantera, a Korean shabu shabu restaurant hidden discreetly in the 'burbs of Tokyo, and recommended to us by Rob, a former man about Tokyo town. At reasonable prices, we tried 2 types of wagyu (including the richly marbled - premium wagyu tenderloin which will send you off into the clouds), barbecued pork, seafood pancakes, refreshing leafy salads with sesame, sizzling vegetables and plate after plate of delectable fare. All were selected by the manager who was so delighted to see two salivating westerners who had arrived on a recommendation that he gave us personal service all night. We lost count of the sake flasks. Make sure you take a taxi - impossible to find. Kantera, 3-12-26 Daizawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 155-0032

For fabulous gyoza in the funky Harajuku shopping area, we loved Harajuku Gyoza Lou, also recommended by the now beloved Rob. 6-2-4 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku 150-0001. Other fab foodie finds: eat fresh sushi washed down with a beer for a 5am breakfast at the stalls surrounding the amazing Tsukiji Fish Market (the giant tuna auctions begin at about 4.30 am); gulp in the breathtaking views of Tokyo over an expensive cocktail at Hyatt Hotel's New York bar (straight from the scenes of "Lost in Translation"); sample beautifully presented, delicate Japanese fine dining at Kozue (also at the Park Hyatt) where the panoramic views include a squizz at Mt Fuji on a good day - service is amazing (you'll be treated like a king or queen).

(Lashings of truffle at La Cocinella, Piedmont)

2. Piedmont: My all round favourite foodie holiday. Tuscan type scenes, but less tourists, more local food holes with Nonna in the kitchen. Dawdle lazily around the vineyards drinking Barolos, Barbarescas and sparkling proseccos from nearby Asti, stopping off at roadside eateries for perfectly cooked plin ("pinched" little raviolis) with rosemary or fresh eggy tagliatelle with rich and meaty ragus. Sample chocolates from Turin, prosciuttos, cheeses and melt in the mouth meats topped with lashings of truffle straight from the local forrested foothills and encrusted in the sweet, native nocciola. Alba, home of the famous white truffle and the Alba Cheese Fair and Slow Food Festival was 10 minutes from our "hotel", I mean "castle". Wander around the bustling markets scoffing local nocciola delights (nougats, hazelnut cakes - even the Nutella factory is nearby), yellow peaches the size of a baby's head and other fresh summer fruits bursting with flavour.

Some of the best eateries included La Coccinella (amazing fine dining quality food cooked up by 2 brothers, with a mix of homey and elegant atmosphere) and, at the more casual end of the scale, the brilliant Trattoria Nella Vigne in Diana D'Alba where, for around 20 Euros a head, plate after plate of delicious, rustic local fare was brought to our table as we slowly reached explosion point - never before have we been defeated before even making it to the main (meat) course (which was rabbit). All this, while soaking in the views over the hills and valleys of Piedmont.

These suggestions are just the smallest tip of the massive local culinary iceberg. We stayed at the excellent Hotel Castello di Sinio (centrally located in the cute local town of Sinio, with a pool overlooking the piazza, and a reputedly great restaurant which was unfortunately closed during our visit - but the owner, Denise, is free flowing with many other great foodie suggestions) and the stunning La Villa (closer to Asti, glamourous villa and gardens, friendly service, lie by the pool smelling the lavender and rosemary bushes at your feet while looking over sunflower fields, and enjoy views of the Alps to help digest your breakfast on the terrace after a morning bike ride through the local hilltop villages - however not so central and local scenery out on the tracks is not so stunning as that in the Sinio area).

(Smack your lips around the Little Owl burger, NY)

(Bedazzling Million Dollar Chicken & sprouts at The Standard Grill, NY)

3. New York: Foodie nirvana. From mouthwatering steaks to gob stopping cupcakes, the Big Apple has it all. With fabulous shopping opportunities in between to help burn it off. Don't miss Shake Shack for your greasy burger fix. See my previous rants here (Breakfasts and Brunches), here (Lunch, Dinner, Snacks on the run), here (The Standard Grill) and here (the fabulous Babbo).


Those were my top 3 foodie destinations for the year. Other culinary highlights for 2009, somewhere in my top 10, included:

Paris: Mais oui. Of course. I adore the cafes, bakeries, cheese shops, florists, chocolatiers, patisseries, butchers etc on Rue Montorgueil for some serious people watching and typical Parisian street scenes, guaranteed to include freshly baked bagettes protruding from bicycle baskets. Mooch into any of the cafes on the strip for a decently cooked piece of steak or duck. Nearby, you gotta love the Love Burger at Cafe Etienne Marcel. This looks like the sort of uber trendy place which we would not normally give a second glance for lunch in Paris, but we were stopped in our tracks by the glorious sight of the Love Burger and it did not disappoint - quality beef grilled beautifully and nestled within a lovely brioche bun, with perfect frites on the side.

Chez Janou is fun for bistro fare in a bustling atmosphere - although the food is not always amazing, and recent visits have featured more tourists than it used to, it's worth a go for the massive bowl of chocolate mousse alone. Said mousse is left at the table to scoop one's own serving to one's greedy heart's desire (although they may have stopped this honesty system as a direct result of my last visit - definitely an eyes bigger than stomach trap every time). Make a late booking for when the crowd hots up and have a kir at the bar beforehand. I also like Juveniles wine bar for casual wine soakage, and can't wait to try Marche Les Enfants Rouges (markets) in the Marias and Chez Georges in a few weeks times. God Bless the Eurostar.

(Parisian patisseries feature aplenty in the GD travels)

Antwerp: This funky design and fashionista city is not just beer and chips - but they're good too; great bars, cafes and restaurants aplenty. Give the fashion museum a miss unless paper dress installations are your thing.

Moscow: Hit and miss on the foodie scene, and the locals constantly look morose, but Moscow is worth a mention for the vodka alone. Who would have guessed sushi would feature so rampantly on every menu in town? The grand and expensive (yet somehow still tacky, being a replica mansion and all) Cafe Pushkin needs to be seen - enjoy the classical live music while you eat in 19th century replica grandeur ... just don't order the beef strogonoff which looks like a microwave meal from an old people's home. Enjoy traditional Georgian fare at Tiflis, under a canopy of vines, washed down with lots of you know what. Purse your lips and don't dare crack a smile as you mingle with the models (and rich old blokes trying to meet them) at the local bars and clubs.

Miami: Some unexpectedly delicious finds, and none better than Michael's Genuine Food & Drink - see my posts here. And you're never too far from a palm tree.

(The Spot's Po Boy in Miami)

Rome: In a city where the men out dress the women every day of the week, soak up the atmosphere at wine bars and trattorias, sipping Aperol as the sun sets and breaking the egg yolk over a delicious pasta alla carbonara after dark. Coffee gelato, big flat pizzas where 2 ingredients pack more flavour than 20 anywhere else (such as the pizza alla romana - brushed with olive oil and rosemary), gorgeous al dente pastas, fried artichokes, and basic cuts of meat cooked by hairy chinned Nonnas to taste like the food of the Gods. All while wearing your black Armani shades.

Kuala Lumpur: Chinese, Malaysian, Indian, Japanese, Portuguese and Korean influences for a touch of exotica - see my previous rant here. Let me know how it goes if you sample the frog porridge.

Melbourne: So many places, so little time. I never miss Cicciolinas for pure Melbourne Italian in funky St Kilda, and Mart for my morning coffee and breakfast wedged between Albert Park and the sunny shores of Middle Park beach. Melbourne does Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, French, Italian and Greek with aplomb - and did I mention the coffee? I am enthralled by all the amazing new places which have sprung up on the Melbourne food scene over the last 18 months - best get exploring.

GD's more detailed guide to Melbourne is coming soon - for now, you can see here (my tribute to the Melbourne dimmy, typical Aussie street food) and here (dreamy corn fritters at Mart 130).

Happy New Year to all! I'm looking forward to clocking up more stamps in the passport and sharing further greedy adventures in 2010. A big thanks for reading the Greedy Diva throughout her infancy.

Gluttonous Travels: Greedy Diva does Miami (Florida, USA)

I have 50 hours in Miami. The sun is shining, the waves are lapping and there's a smell of fake tan in the air. So much to eat, so little time...

Five Guy's Burgers: 1500 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Having been starved off my BA flight (2 meals in almost 10 hours with not an offer of a peanut in between), upon arrival at Miami, I was starting to eye off passing limbs as I made my way to Five Guy's Burgers. Lucky for me, The Peanut Gallery had cased out the South Beach scene the night before, and recommended I sample a wee burger as a pre-dinner emergency snack.

I ordered the "small" cheese burger with lettuce, tomato, pickle and ketchup (although choose your own adventure with the toppings at no extra charge). Greasy, juicy, flavoursome, delicious. Looks somewhat disturbingly like a Maccas burger, but tastes in a whole different league. Just the right beef to fat ratio (which according to Marco Pierre White, should be 80:20 and I'm not inclined to argue). And it turns out "small" simply means 1 normal sized patty as opposed to "large" which involves 2 double decker slabs of meat (tempting...).

A big box of unshelled peanuts is available on a help yourself basis to crack and nibble while you wait. And chips are served peel on. I like it! Less than $3-something for the "small" (but not really small) burger.

Miss Yip Chinese Cafe: 1661 Meridian Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Following on from my burger appetiser, chased down by a refreshing margarita on Lincoln Road, it was time for some sobering late night Chinese food. Miss Yip is described by the Wallpaper City Guide to Miami as "sort of Suzi Wong meets New York's Mercer hotel-designer Christian Liagre". It's cool but traditional all at the same time. 

Despite the funky interior, Miss Yip was not all style over substance. Big chunks of sesame chicken with broccoli were addictively delicious, and the sweet and sour shrimp were big, buxom and packed with flavour. There's lots to choose from on the "Hong Kong inspired" menu. 

Along with sake (not a good match) and rice, eat fairly cheaply for around $15 per head.

David's Cafe: 1654 Meridian Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

Just across the road from Miss Yip, David's Cafe offers Cuban cuisine served in an extremely basic (borderline grotty) setting.

On the prowl for a decent morning caffeine heart-starter, it was hard to go past David's with the gathering hordes queuing out the front for their morning fix. The cortaditos were formidable (Cuban coffee in the form of a strong short black with about 25% frothy warm milk). Yeeehaaah.

With some interesting Cuban brekkie options on the menu, but the hope of some significant meals on the day's agenda, it took some willpower to stick to the Cuban toast - long thin (rather dry) bread served with jam and, as a consequence of minor theft from TPG's plate, a generous dollop of cream cheese (my own spontaneous American-Cuban fusion). 3 coffees, 1 large Cuban toast, 1 bagel and 1 OJ later the bill came to less than $10 for two. Did I mention how much I loved the cortaditos?

The Spot: 1570B Alton Road, Miami Beach, Florida, USA

I am probably one of only a chosen few who have ever taken a taxi from a luxury, poolside cocktail bar specifically to get to The Spot. A tiny, non-descript takeaway style joint, I would definitely not have shot The Spot a second glance had I not heard the good oil from other trusted foodies (thanks Frodnesor).

But, as is often the case, it's the quiet types that you have to watch. In the case of The Spot, it is bang on the money when it comes to simple (heart attack inspiring) food that hits, well, the spot.

The Spot serves a simple menu of soul/Southern food. I was not leaving without indulging in The Spot Shrimp Po' Boy. About 35,000 kilos of fried shrimp, lettuce and mayo walloped my way, crammed happily into a long crunchy roll. "Just use your fork to squash it in, grab some napkins and eat it" offered the helpful counter guy. So, I did.

As the mayo dripped down my face, I also sampled the side of the day: the black eyed peas. Cooked with bacon and onion, this was a mushy little concoction of no particular flavour or merit, although - true to form - I ate it all the same.

Po' boy ($8), mush and giant forearm sized lemonade came to a hefty $18 bill, presumably including a decent tip (although I was so busy talking through with the staff the possibility of having a Po' Boy delivered to the beach, that I paid this sum plus a considerable extra post shrimp delirium tip without calculating.)



Cocktail hour:

After some serious beach time (alas, no Po' Boy delivery for afternoon tea - this time...), it was necessary to gather my thoughts over a well made martini at the luxurious Delano Hotel (the foyer alone is a sight to be seen), backed up nicely by a refreshing mohito at the Shore Club's Skybar, which was everything a glitzy Miami meat market should be.

Then it was over the bridge towards the glistening lights of downtown Miami and the Design District to the main event...

Michael's Genuine Food and Drink: 130 North East 40th Street, Miami Design District, Florida, USA

Even just recalling my meal at Michael's last night, the loony smile/dazed look combination is already creeping back onto my face.

I was eating solo, and willing to travel for a hearty bite. Tucked away in the artsy Miami Design District, Michael's Genuine Food and Drink is well worth the cab fare from South Beach across the Biscayne Bay.

Michael Schwartz's restaurant is a popular, bustling Miami institution for those seeking great quality, locally sourced food a world away from the South Beach scene. I perched myself up at bar overlooking the frenetic kitchen. As the tickets rolled in at an alarming pace, before a morsel had even passed my lips, I was already in heaven watching the kitchen theatre play out. Cries of "chicken in the hole" and "2 grouper" rang out, as pizza bases were tossed and rolled, the enormous pastry chef (a good sign) juggled trays of eggs and spliced through dough, trays of giant wood oven roasted whole snapper sprung over the counter, and  the woodfire flames burned merrily throughout.

Dishes are conveniently layed out on the menu in terms of size: small (ranging from $8 - $15), medium $10 - $20), large ($20 - $30) and extra large ($30 +, and where is The Peanut Gallery when you need him?)

I started with the wood roasted double yolk farm egg, cave aged gruyere, roasted tomato, chives and sourdough crostini. The waiter just smiled and nodded knowingly as I ordered. And it was simply breathtaking (the food, not the smile). A ramekin of soft perfectly formed yolks, were topped with baked earthy gruyere. My entire body was smiling, as I savoured each mouthful never wanting it to end. If I had someone to talk to, I would have been speechless.

Since it had been a light day for food (cough), I eventually moved on to the pan roasted 1/2 "poulet rouge" chicken, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, escarole. Poulet rouge is a rustic chicken breed raised organically, in this case, in parts of America's south. This one had clearly been, via the wood oven, to heaven and back. Crispy skin perfectly encased the juicy, smoky meat. Gorgeous.

For unpretentious, top quality, skilled home cooking, it would be hard to beat Michael's. The kitchen has the confidence to hold back from allowing too much chefyness interfere with simple, pure flavours. Sitting at the bar is spectacular, or you could opt for an alfresco dinner in the courtyard (it's warm in Miami even when its dark and cold in London...). Thanks again to Frodnesor for this much treasured recommendation.

The bill came to $52 including wine - such a small price to pay for perfection and a smile that will last for days.

News Cafe: 800 Ocean Drive, South Beach, Miami, Florida, USA 

Breakfast. Time to get some cleansing vitamins in the system. After a stroll along the glamorous Ocean Drive, in the heart of Miami's Art Deco district, I settle on News Cafe to soak up some sun and take in the scene. There are plentiful options on Ocean Drive, which is lined with cafes, hotels and restaurants from glitzy to the fabulous - although food quality may be questionable despite the fact you'll pay over $5 for your latte. News Cafe is one of the more laid back options (less Botox, more Boho), packed with tables spilling on to the sidewalk.

As I was after a refreshingly light and healthy option, I ordered the pancakes with banana and strawberries. As my waiter disappeared onto the horizon, I looked down at my gullet, remembered I was soon to go on show as South Beach's whitest person in a bikini, and promptly had a change of heart. I chased down my waiter for the fruit salad and granola. The fruit was plentiful, and just the health boost I needed, although the granola was a little too sweet. My cortadito was bitter and not a patch on that at David's Cafe, but it did what I needed it to do.

An extensive menu for a casual, basic brekkie - mine came to around $10. News Cafe is not a "must do" on your Miami eats hit list, despite that it seems to have earned some fame, but a stroll along Ocean Drive should not be missed.



Tapas & Tintos: 448 Espanola Way, Miami, Florida, USA

Finally, we joined up with some friends for a last minute lunch at Tapas & Tintos. A hit and miss mix of tapas and salads was no match for the sparkling company.

Goodbye Miami:

Greedy Diva's 50 hour whirlwind tour of Miami had come to an end. Not only had I topped up on essential vitamin D stocks to get me through the dark London winter, but Miami was so much more than I had bargained for - loved it, loved it, loved it!

But this is no time for reminiscences. Next stop, New York!