Sunday, 18 October 2009

Pizza East, London


Last night, we sat down, looked up, and came face to face with a firing squad of 7 burly pizza makers and their shovels.

Pizza East opened on Friday in the Tea Building on the corner of Shoreditch High Street and Bethnal Green Road. It's a huge industrial space of steel, exposed concrete and naked beams and pipes, softened by elaborate light fittings and friendly service.

Its speciality is thin, 10 inch base pizzas with toppings ranging from the rustic to the elaborate. I went for the veal meatballs, sage, cream and lemon pizza (appealing to my memories of gourmet travels in Piedmont) while The Peanut Gallery branched out with the prawn, tomato, garlic, spring onion, marjoram and chilli option recommended by our waiter.

Both pizzas looked like they had been slapped around the head a little, as all good pizzas should. The ingredients were somewhat sparse, but the flavours (particularly of the veal pizza) packed enough punch while retaining subtlety in all the right places (lemon on a pizza is surely a potential minefield for disaster, but our Pizza East bakers managed to dodge the traps). The key to good pizza is all in the base - limp, lethargic, half-hearted excuses for a pizza have no place in this world. The thin base here was crisp and strong, although the prawn pizza was slightly burnt around the edges.

With our pizzas, we shared a salad of wild rocket, shaved fennel, almonds, parmesan, lemon and extra virgin olive oil - it looked a little dry but wasn't dry on tasting even if it could have done with a little more parmesan.

Other dishes on offer include an antipasti selection (especially tempting given the raunchy hams hanging over the bar, beckoning one's taste buds), tapas style starters (eg. wood roasted mussels, fennel, garlic aioli) and large mains cooked in the wood oven (eg. porchetta, cannellini beans, kale, fennel apple sauce).

For dessert, we couldn't go past the hot cinnamon sugar doughnuts and Valrhona chocolate - although I'm now kicking myself we didn't try the salted chocolate caramel tart as well (what were we thinking?). The doughnuts were as delicious as they sound. The chocolate was spot on - unlike the sickly versions often on offer at your average churros joint. The doughnuts were light and fluffy which The Peanut Gallery (a doughnut connoisseur from way back) thought ideal, although I would have liked a little extra gooeyness.

We had prime position seats at the bar facing the kitchen and pizza ovens. The live pizza making show was a source for ample entertainment, particularly with a newly assembled cast on display which had only been tested on the neighbours for a few days prior to opening.  There was a little bumping and thumping, and the odd debate regarding such important lessons as the precise placement of anchovy, but generally the routine was already well coordinated and these things added positively to the real life character of the experience.

We arrived quite early at 7pm, having just been to the cinemas down the road ("(500) Days of Summer" is hilarious, by the way). On arrival, there was some twiddling of the thumbs among the cooks, so it was a little discomforting to have the entire line up staring blankly at us while we perused the menu. We felt compelled to give them all a nod and "hello". However, soon things livened up and it was all action stations so, fortunately, we did not feel the need to seek their input on all our conversations for the evening.

The bill came to £68 with a half carafe of wine, dessert moscato and service. A little steep for pizza but we're happy to pay slightly over the odds for the quality and a fun night, as well as a few extras.

Apparently there will be a DJ from Thursdays to Saturdays (which raises alarm bells about the way this place might be heading), and take away will be on offer from December (you lucky Shoreditchians, you).

Pizza East is still teething, but we'll certainly pay it another visit - if it doesn't become too cool for school in the meantime.

Pizza East, Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ





Pizza East on Urbanspoon

Friday, 16 October 2009

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia - October 2009



I had never before anticipated eating frog porridge. So, I didn’t. Perhaps it was the imagery of a crunchy frog leg sticking out of my morning oatmeal which unfairly put me off, but I can't say that the foregone experience is, so far, one of life's regrets.


Kuala Lumpur offers a smorgasbord of exotic culinary experiences for the intrepid traveller. From the weird to the wonderful, KL’s pleasures are bountiful.


KL is a crowded metropolis of people, traffic, skyscrapers, luxury shopping malls, counterfeit markets and dens for the foodie to score. From luxury restaurants, to crazy night markets, from discreet tea houses tucked up in alley ways to packed mamak stalls spilling onto the streets, there is plenty to devour.


Slightly inconveniently for food blogging purposes, I was in KL on a work trip. Therefore, while my travels normally revolve almost entirely around carefully planned foodie research, I was in the hands of conference organisers when it came to my KL eating adventures. Fortunately, I did at least have the opportunity to sample a range of KL’s diverse ethnic cuisines, which include Malaysian, Thai, Indian, Korean, Japanese and Portuguese delicacies.


Which brings me back to the porridge. While I passed on the frog option, I did opt for the Chinese home cooked porridge (or “congee”) with century egg and shredded chicken at Luk Yu Tea House . After 3 days of non-stop seminars in bone chilling, air-conditioned rooms, this was a heart warming and rejuvenating pleasure. Congee is made from rice (rather than oatmeal!) so think not so much “porridge” as thick, silky, chickeney soup garnished with shredded spring onion.


Luk Yu Tea House is a restful, Chinese lunching spot hidden away in the lower bowels of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel – although, on the negative side, it doesn’t quite shake that feel of being in an upmarket hotel “food court”. To accompany my main, I indulged in gourmet dim sum – steamed chicken and prawn dumping “siew mai”, steamed prawn dumpling in crystal skin “har kau” and steamed shark fin in dumpling with celery. These were completely scrumptious, and I could have eaten a dozen more.


The crispy fried beancurd skin roll with prawns and cheese, and crispy spring roll with yam and chicken were tasty but a little too oily. Nevertheless, accompanied by endless pots of Chinese tea, this is one place I can recommend, particularly for those wanting a break from the hustle and bustle of the streets.


Another favourite (despite the name) was Jim Thompson Thai. I indulged in a fresh, colourful and tasty feast of Pad Thai with prawns gorgeously presented in an egg nest cup, a papaya and roast peanut salad and flavoursome BBQ chicken with rice. Dessert was delicious – a tropical fruit salad of lychee, orange, papaya, coconut and grilled peanuts. And I couldn’t resist the watermelon juice. Thai food this good is hard to come by in London.


Spicy Malay style meats and vegetables, grilled satays, nasi lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk accompanied by spices, dried anchovies, roasted peanuts, chopped cucumber, hardboiled egg and spicy sambal sauce), curries and bright red, rose flavoured drinks, were decent at Enak Restaurant, although nothing to write home about. KoRyo-Won offered a “dosirak” (a Korean style bento box) of Korean tasters, including BBQ chicken with lashings of chilli, an apple and mayonnaise salad, ultra spicy Korean cabbage, greens with sesame and rice.


But to sample the real Malaysia, the foodie needs to break away from the restaurant scene and get amongst it at KL’s bustling night markets and food stalls serving street food. Jalan Alor was formerly the red light district of KL, but is now an outdoor night market packed with locals and tourists alike feeding upon huge grilled fishes, satays, stir fries, chickens, pork buns, dumplings, noodles, tropical fruits and…. frog porridge.


Kopitiams (or coffee shops, like budget Chinese restaurants) are scattered among the streets and I can thoroughly recommend the local “teh tarik” – sweet frothy tea with condensed milk - and black sesame ice-cream.


China Town, surrounding Petaling Street, is also a feast - for the eyes as well as the taste buds. Although I missed the day time food market, from all reports it’s an amazing, tummy turning event of bartering and food sniffing which needs to be seen – but beware of the odd rat scampering by!


I only sampled the tip of KL’s culinary iceberg, and I liked what I saw. That said, after 5 days of non-stop spice and sensory overload, I’m looking forward to a bowl of pasta tonight….



Tune in next month for New York. I’ll include new experiences and a round up on some old favourites from trips gone by.








Monday, 12 October 2009

The Only Running Footman, London



What is the etiquette when the meal you ordered turns out to be so much better than your boyfriend's that you sense he is starting to eye off yours?

This person, the love of your life, is suffering cruelly - but is is really necessary to share? Is it acceptable to pretend not to notice the insipid little salad on the other side of the table, nod encouragingly and wince a little as you bite into your own deliciously juicy feast in the vain hope it might discourage any temptation for him to help himself to your chips?


So was Sunday's moral dilemma. 


The Peanut Gallery and I are mildly competitive when it comes to ordering. No-one likes to be left with the dud dish. The Peanut Gallery has even been known to feign indecision, refusing to reveal his selection, until the waitress arrives.


Usually are experiences are roughly equal in quality. Sometimes there is a clear victor. Sunday was one such occasion.


After an exhausting morning watching gazelle-like runners pound away at the London half marathon, the Greedy Diva, The Peanut Gallery and their inspiringly sport friends (some fresh from participating in the event) met up near the Hyde Park finish line - at The Only Running Footman in the swanky streets of Mayfair. The object: to refuel with some serious pub fare.


The Only Running Footman looks like the sort of pretty, English pub you might find  in a country village. Downstairs, the pub is lively, boisterous and bright, with big bay windows, and wooden floorboards and furniture, endowing it with a friendly but chic feel. Upstairs, the soft furnishings are more elegant, and the ambience more subdued and serious.


The breadbasket is always a good indicator of things to come, and the hearty walnut break here was greedily devoured.


The menu is largely traditional British pub fare, done well - 3 kinds of roasts (lamb, beef, and an impressive pouisson with cranberry) with Yorkshire pud and plentiful trimmings, battered fish and fat, hand cut chips, potted Morecombe Bay shrimp, fish cakes with poached egg, a warm veggie option of butternut squash, buffalo mozzarella, broccoli, mustard fruits and Amaretti gratin and some good looking desserts, like spiced banana tarte tartin with dulce de leche ice cream.


But today, in empathy with my triumphant running friends seeking urgent calorific relief, it had to be the burger. And this burger was glorious. OK, so the burger pictured was no supermodel. But beauty is more than skin deep. Thick, juicy and flavoursome, with a nicely toasted bun, tomato, cheese, lettuce and a gorgeously sweet relish - this burger had personality. The Greedy Diva napkined up, and hoed in heartily. And, in the spirit of half marathon day where everyone's a winner, she even threw the odd morsel The Peanut Gallery's way. This was the best burger the Greedy Diva has sampled for some time.


TPG made the somewhat surprising move of ordering the crispy sesame duck salad. I can't even remember the exact description on the menu, because who ever scrutinises the salad option  in a pub? All I know is, I saw a lot of leaves being pushed dejectedly around a plate while The Peanut Gallery stared down my burger.


The Only Running Footman is a solid performer, so long as you stick to traditional British pub fare and (need I say it?) steer clear of Asian style salads. All up, lunch was just over £20 per head, including drinks,


But on the sharing dilemma I think, my fellow greedies, the answer must always be a resounding "yes". Yes, share. Share away. Because one day the running shoe may well be on the other foot.

The Only Running Footman, 5 Charles Street, London W1J 5DE

Only Running Footman on Urbanspoon

Saturday, 10 October 2009

Milk Bar (and other caffeine hits), London


Milk Bar. The very name calls to mind the halcyon days of big milk shakes, teeth lollies, freckles by the bags full and Return of the Jedi icy-poles. Buffalo Bill anyone?



For the Greedy Diva's money, her local Milk Bar in Soho is making the best coffee of the moment. The younger sister of another Soho old faithful, Flat White, Milk Bar is Dannii to Flat White's Kylie - not quite as famous, but it's having a good time anyway. As the name suggests, Milk Bar is another Antipodean coffee shop and it knows how to roast a bean.


Tucked away near near Soho Square, Milk Bar is a slightly more chilled option than Flat White and is usually a safer bet for a seat and larger groups than Greedy Diva's beloved Fernandez & Wells.


For breakfast options, Milk Bar knocks up a solid serving of avocado & tomato on toast with coriander and lime (Greedy's staple), Turkish bread with Vegemite for a Sunday morning Vitamin B boost, or wrap your lips around one of the scrumptious haloumi and bacon bagels (mmm...).


It also has lovely big fluffy pastries (love the almond croissant) and a range of tasty salads for lunching. All accompanied by the perfect flat white.


In the land of defiant tea swillers, few coffee shops in London have baristas in the same league - Flat White (Soho), Fernandez & Wells (Soho), the lovely Lantana (Fitzrovia, recent winner of Best New Cafe, Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards 2009), Monmouth (Covent Garden & Burough Market), Providores (Marylebone) & Leila's (Calvert Ave, Shoreditch - also love the eggs with sage in a pan, followed up nicely with a slab of ginger cake). In March of the Penguins style, Greedy Diva and her Antipodean-style coffee lovers tend to migrate around between these options as the best coffee of the moment randomly flits between them. 


The Greedy Diva, who always has her ear to the ground for word of a good flattie, has heard rumblings that Taylor Street Baristas (Bishopsgate) and Dose (Long Lane, City) are also up there with the big hitters - sadly, Greedy Diva has yet to try.


For reliable back up options, LJ's Coffee (Winnett St, Soho - coffee is pretty good but more of a gamble; the hot chocolate is great and comes with shaved rich chocolate on top) and Kaffeine (Fitzrovia) are also not bad at all for emergency hits. 


And no mega grande vanilla options in sight...





Milk Bar, 3 Bateman St, Soho, W1D 4AG
Milk Bar on Urbanspoon

You might also like...

Related Posts with Thumbnails